The Seychelles: Pinnacle of Purity

first published in Shanghai Family June 2015

Michelle Feneberg

“The water looks fake!” stated one of my children whilst taking a boat trip in the Seychelles. Never before had they seen so many hues of perfect blue that were simply indescribable. Blue curacao was the closest I could come to describing one of the hues. The Seychelles is all about purity; pure blue ocean, pure white powder sand, pure clean air to fill your lungs, pure palm trees languishing over the breaking waves. A lonesome location in the middle of the Indian Ocean, not too far from the equator these islands are still pristine.

Mahé is the main island with the international airport but we chose to stay on Praslin Island which is somewhat smaller, but still large enough for exploration and adventure. Some of the smaller islands are easily accessible from Praslin for daily excursions. There is a vast array of accommodation available on Praslin from swanky 5 Star establishments like Raffles and Lemuria, to the quieter Coco de Mer hotel through to guest houses and self-catering. Ideally one should rent a car to explore the island’s many beautiful beaches. Cote d’Or is the golden mile of Praslin with many hotels, restaurants and curio shops. Mini islands dot the horizon providing a charming view from this beach.

The Coco de Mer is situated on the quieter side of the island and is perfectly positioned to deliver spectacular sunsets from mid-August to the end of April. The rooms are ideally suited for a family of four as the couches quickly convert into two single comfortable beds. The hotel is named after the famed Coco de Mer seed and palm which hold three of the world’s botanical records: largest fruit, heaviest seed and largest flower on the female palm. The palm is endemic to the Seychelles and sadly also endangered. The kids were amused to hold the unusual seed, shaped like a woman’s bottom, on one of the regular nature walks offered by the hotel on its expansive property. Guided by the amiable and knowledgeable Joseph, these interesting walks meander up the hill behind the hotel offering spectacular views. We caught sight of the rare Seychelles Black Parrot found only on Praslin Island, as well as a variety of skinks, bats and hermit crabs.

The hotel also offers free transport to Anse Lazio beach, arguably one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. This beach is somewhat remote from the hustle and bustle of the island, but it is absolutely worth the journey whether by rickety public bus or taxi. The bus stop is about a kilometer from the beach, but the walk meanders mostly along the only access road to the beach beneath the tropical vegetation. Two small restaurants cater for hungry tummies after plenty of swimming and snorkelling. Snorkelling on either side of the bay amongst the granite rocks is extremely rewarding with a whole different ecosystem thriving beneath the surface. Clarinet fish watch motionlessly as you fin past them admiring every variety of colour and pattern in fish you could just imagine. If you make a scratching sound on a rock the curious parrot fish will arrive to see what there is to eat. The kids describe the underwater crackling sounds of the mantis shrimp hunting and the parrot fish eating as the sound of popping candy. Our kids had hours of fun boogie boarding in the waves and when they were eventually tired of the water sat nibbling coconut on the beach. A local showed us how to open a coconut and by the end of the holiday we were experts at extracting the nutritious water and fleshy fruit.

We took a boat trip to Cousin Island which is a nature reserve for birds. Not afraid of humans and other predators the birds nest on the ground next to the pathways, oblivious of the tourists that meander past. The pure white fairy tern looks like a bird from a fairy tale as it preens its perfect feathers. It looks so perfect you want to reach out to touch it to make sure it is real. It is quite an adventure to get onto the island because the boats bringing tourists are prohibited from docking on the island. Instead tourists need to clamber from their boats into the nature conservation boats which then roar at great speed and launch themselves onto the beach much to the excitement of the children. This is to prevent stowaway rats from getting onto the island and decimating the tame bird population. The island is also home to a number of the Aldabra giant tortoises which crane their necks curiously as tourists pass by. Some of the oldest living tortoises in the Seychelles are estimated to be over 200 years old.

Octopus Diver Diving Centre operates from Cote d’Or, but will collect divers from their hotel anywhere on the island. A 40 minute boat trip took us to one of the outlying dive sites just off Marianne Island. Diving at South Marianne will remain one of our most memorable dives. The pinnacle-shaped granite rocks create walls from the ocean floor up the sides of the island and the great momentum of the ocean moves the gargantuan boulders in the sea and they groan and creek with every wave. This is the haunt of grey reef sharks which hover in the distance, but the curious bat fish come close and follow you on your dive. We spotted a turtle, an octopus and many unusual looking clown fish hiding in their anemone homes. The underwater crackling sounds as well as the abundance of marine life made this a most enjoyable dive. The dive center also offers scuba training for children.

Our excursion to La dique island was the highlight of our trip. La dique is the picture postcard island used in all the advertising of the Seychelles. As a rule no motor vehicles are allowed on the island (except for the occasional delivery truck and hotel mini bus), so it is quite safe to rent bicycles and explore the island with children. (note included 2017 - apparently there is more motorised traffic on the island now than previously). We decided to head directly south to the furthest point of the island at the Grand Anse and Petit Anse beaches before the day grew too hot. There is quite a steep hill to cross to get to the other side of the island, but if you are not in a rush it is quite manageable. We were rewarded with long white beaches sweeping into the distance like scenes from a castaway movie. Unfortunately the undercurrents are too dangerous for swimming here, but there is a lovely, rustic beachside food hut that can rustle up a meal or snack while you enjoy the view. Cycling back to the northern end of the island we caught glimpses into the daily lives of the Seychellois people as the road meandered past their homes. Up on the north eastern side of the island we discovered Hotel L´Océan. Its restaurant is perched up high with grand views of the surrounding islands which makes you want to languish a little longer, sipping another glass of French wine as you soak up the indescribably beautiful scenery. Further along the road we stopped at one of the many little beaches for a dip in the sea and a dig in the sand before catching the ferry back to Praslin.

We loved the Seychelles and will have lasting memories of its purity. The authentic beauty of boulders, sand, vegetation and endless hues of blue augment each other creating one of the most strikingly beautiful places on earth.